Tuesday, May 7, 2013

[Advanced] Magnificent Malta (3)

The food
I'm not a foodie, but the standard fare of Malta seemed bland for a country so close to Italy, where you can find great restaurants blindfolded. I'm sure there's great food here; I just didn't find it, with that one exception in Marsaxlokk.

The only chichi restaurant I wanted to try was the one in Mdina seemingly favored by Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie when he was shooting a movie here in 2011 ("World War Z," set for release in 2013). The man answering the phone at De Mondion seemed stunned that I thought I could make a same-day reservation. I didn't try again.

Malta's national dishes are rabbit stew and lampuka (dolphin fish). I thought the "stew" part meant I would not see enough rabbit shape to discern that I was eating a bunny. It wasn't bad, but I prefer fish. The lampuka was OK, but my serving was no big deal.

OK, the history
You could spend an eon visiting crypts, churches, museums. For a comprehensive history lesson in one 45-minute sitting, do it with a film, "The Malta Experience" (themaltaexperience.com) along the Grand Harbor in Valletta. See St. John's Co-Cathedral in central Valletta for jaw-dropping opulence. This place is integral to Maltese history's chief players: the Knights of Malta (the Crusades, the Maltese cross, etc.)

You should see at least one of the prehistoric temples. Some are on the smaller island of Gozo, requiring a ferry ride. I preferred the Hagar Qim Temple on the southwest coast of Malta, minutes west of Zurrieq. (How did those guys quarry and transport a 20-ton stone?)

And spend a day in Mdina. The Normans did nice work. Trust me. History can make for a relaxing vacation.


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