Sunday, May 5, 2013

[Advanced] Magnificent Malta (1)

Little Malta’s history far outweighs its size
The danger of going to Malta for a relaxing vacation is that a history lesson might break out.

Frankly, the place even exceeds the limits of history, because we don't really know a lot about those people who built temples here that predate the pyramids by about 1,000 years. The people we do know about made the two main islands of Malta a destination as soon as mankind learned how to float boats in one direction. Its desirability for navigation makes sense, because it sits nearly equidistant from each end of the Mediterranean.

But Malta's history is not all ancient. It was here that Chris Stevens, the recently slain U.S. ambassador to Libya, visited frequently to prepare for his posting in that war-ravaged nation just to the south.


Before that, it was such a strategic aggravation to Hitler, because of British guns and aircraft, that he did his best to reduce these chalky limestone islands to gravel with bombings several times a day during World War II.

Because war has so defined the place, the warmth of the Maltese toward strangers is all the more amazing. If you're lost, I know for a fact that they will gladly help you get found, and they will do it in English, thanks to a British past dating back two centuries, though now it's an independent and also Maltese-speaking country.



The lay of the land
Sitting 60 miles south of Sicily, the nation of Malta is about 122 square miles — the size of Omaha, Neb. — most of that on Malta, the biggest of the stunningly deforested handful of islands. Although its 408,000 people make it the most densely populated nation in the European Union, the main island actually has enough countryside to get lost in if you're driving, which I was.

I rented a walled villa in one of the oldest cities, Zurrieq (pronounced like Zurich), because I wanted a more genuine Maltese experience and not one more urban European visit.



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